On the first official day of this Autumn/Winter 2016 Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin, the highly anticipated MARCEL OSTERTAG show takes place at the Heeresbäckerei. In this historic building, the designer hopes to mark History in demonstrating his technique and aesthetic.
In the crowded room, people slowly take their seat, as a recorded voice announces “Rain, Marcel Ostertag, 20 minutes”. It does so every five minutes, until four big screens start playing the new collection’s shooting video. The film pictures how the campaign was shot, along with thoughts and comments from Marcel Ostertag, the photographer, the makeup artist, and other team members. This has an exclusivity effect on the audience, who feels more part of the collection, even thought the show hasn’t begun yet. When the room goes black, the sound of rain prepares us for what is about to come. Then, a bright light shines to the sound of a music, which lyrics are “Raindrops fall down”.
As models exhibit this “Rain” collection, the zigzag-like route allows most people to be front row, and enjoy full-length, detailed outfits. The first pastel blue and pink outfits offer a Scandinavian look, which then shifts into ecru and light brown coloured garments, in a more classical tone. Dark colours such as black, green and blue keep on with the professional workwear, before moving to a nice burgundy that recalls some of the first looks, while mixing them with the following ones.
Coats, raincoats, jackets and sweater are alternated to vary the short to long silhouettes, which is also reflected in the size of dresses, skirts and trousers. They are all made of highly delicate fabrics, such as fine silk, fur of a transparent material. The see-through fabrics contrast to other matt ones, and act as a sexiness game: what can be discerned from these female bodies. The whole collection hence proves itself to be greatly feminine. A fur jacket with a see-through top underneath, or partly matt and partly transparent dress, the outfits are teasing while staying quite professional. If the use of transparency is not applied, Marcel Ostertag beautifully worked with a weightless silk, which follows the models’ body contours. This collection embraces femininity and gives women the power to play.
To keep up with his theme, the designer not only presents raincoats or other rain-free materials, he also incorporates elements within his collection. Big raindrops motifs are knitted in sweaters, and fringed outfits are created to refer back to the rain when the models walk. Moreover, the shiny fur coats and jackets attract the light in a way that resembles the effect of a drizzle on clothes.
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Marcel Ostertag clearly shows with this collection that he has mastered the art of making clothes and using delicate fabrics. His previous work experience at Burberry can be noticed with his beautiful coats and trench coats, which could be worthy of the British brand. He mixes tradition with a modern take on femininity to celebrate and empower women.
Der Beitrag MARCEL OSTERTAG | Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin Autumn/Winter 2016 erschien zuerst auf SUPERIOR MAGAZINE.