Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin’s tent is packed for this ODEUR Autumn/Winter 2016 show. As a blue light invades the room, six models come down the catwalk. Nothing is really discernible, no gender or garment can be defined, which only leaves space for black silhouettes. The white podium, the blue light and these black shapes depict, in the first few seconds, the colour palette that will dominate this collection. The six first models then move to both sides of the stage and stay put until their turn to walk the runway arrives. This brakes with the regular catwalk show’s monotony and offers a more entertaining presentation. When the six models have all come down, single models alternate with couples to keep up with this attention-grabbing idea.
All along the show, the same electronic music resonates. It sounds like three distinct notes dominate and correspond to the collection’s colours, which relate to the brand’s iconic triangular shape. Three notes, three colours and the balance is reached.
The first outfits consist of a superposition of black cotton and wool fabrics. The elongated silhouettes blur the body shapes, and give a unisex characteristic to all looks – which is one of the brand’s essences. Strings of fabrics on each side of the outfits refer to the horizontal effect given by the layering, as they flow behind the models. This is emphasised with other strings worn as necklaces and ankle bracelets, and is also reflected in the hairstyles.
To brake the all black and formless silhouettes, geometrical motifs are incorporated, as well as diagonal cuts and seams. After the black outfits, the designers introduce a black and white fur coat, composed of squared spirals, which fabric will reoccur on other jackets and trousers. The colour then shifts to white, to black again and then the two mixed with an electric blue.
With oversized t-shirts and outerwear, or pockets on regular sized garments, the designs break with the basics. This sober sports and street-wear collection is actually way more complicated and interesting than it seems. The all and partly white outfits have some clinical references, with gauzy, whiter than white fabrics and bandage-like straps on them. The designers skillfully deconstruct the norms, not only to present new designs, but also to offer a gender-free collection.
[nggallery id=540]
Some classical touches give a twist to the sportswear. Indeed, well-constructed single-breasted blazers demonstrate that the outfits can also be serious, allowing them to be universal. Both male and female people, of all ages and lifestyles can wear the outfits.
The Swedish designers came a long way from their debuts as a T-shirt brand. This autumn/winter 2016 collection clearly demonstrates that they have mastered the basics, which are here so much more complicated than what they appear to be.
Der Beitrag ODEUR | Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin Autumn/Winter 2016 erschien zuerst auf SUPERIOR MAGAZINE.