Founded in 1924, Belstaff is now one of the biggest British fashion brands and full of history, which the label presents in each collection. The aspect of heritage combined with the spirit of adventure made Belstaff as successful as they are today. Despite the label's classicstyle, over and over, Belstaff is able to deliver a modern collection that is influenced by the brand's history, yet not in an overbearing way. The classic belted wax cotton 4-pocket jacket is what Belstaff is known for and many popular names appreciated the brand over the years: T.E. Lawrence, Amelia Earhart and Che Guevera to more modern names like David Beckham, Ewan McGregor, Jamie Campbell-Bower, Kristen Stewart, Rihanna, Jemma Kidd and British racing drivers Max Chilton and Sammy Miller are only an exempt. "Heading North", the A/W 2016 Men's collection is evidence of Belstaff's ability to merge history and modernity.
The idea for the Autumn/Winter 2016 collection is an cold adventure journey, with the pursuit of freedom (by riding snow mobiles and motorbikes) in the back of one's mind. Merging the heritage of Belstaff's classic design principles of protection against water, wind and friction, with innovative new materials, constructions and functionalities, the brand constructed looks that are luxury, but also wearable. Frederik Dyhr, VP of Men's Design, explains: "We were inspired by the pioneers of endurance riding who threaded their bikes through some of the most inhospitable conditions for the sheer challenge of the journey, hence the concept of protection from the elements was integral to the design. By drawing upon the Belstaff heritage, we have provided an unmatched level of functionality and technical detailing, with added warmth and comfort."
For the collection’s presentation, Belstaff took over the dilapidated Victorian red-brick arches of Southwark’s Ewer Street, providing a bleak backdrop to set the scene for this cold adventure. It truly made one feel the feel of the collection, by being brought into a scene that very well represents the inspiration, idea and message of all the different looks combined. Guests included Labrinth (musician), Jack Fox (actor), Johannes Huebl (model, husband of Olivia Palermo), Robert Konjic (model), Dermot O’Leary (TV presenter), Hu Bing (Chinese model, LCM ambassador), Oliver Cheshire (model), Craig McGinlay (actor), Hugo Taylor (actor, entrepreneur), Alistair Guy (social photographer), Nicki Shields (presenter and face of Formula E!), Samantha Barks (actress and singer), Betty Bachz (Chinese TV presenter and model), Tilly Wood (daughter-in-law Ronnie Wood) and Caroline Rush (Chief Executive, British Fashion Council).
"The concept of adaptability in our Autumn 16 (pre) collection couldn’t be more relevant given the unusually mild weather we’re experiencing,” explains Belstaff CEO Gavin Haig. “Our multiple membranes and linings mean that Belstaff outerwear easily adjusts to temperatures and layers can be peeled off. That said, meteorologists expect El Niño’s frostier sister La Niña to take over this time next year: the more directional Winter 16 collection you see here will ensure you are prepared."
For Outerwear, Belstaff this season combined functionality and modernity by e.g. insulation the iconic wax-cotton styles with detachable fur and shearling trims – specifically in four-pocket jackets and fishtail mountain parka styles. If you want to explore an even colder climate, there is an Arctic duck-down filled all-in-one exploration suit in high performance nylon twill, together with an Arctic duck-down four-pocket parka with a fully adjustable fur-trimmed hood, an internal snow skirt and rib storm-cuffs rendering the ultimate in cold weather protection. To ensure that not only the technical aspect is covered, a graphic impact is made by interpreting the camouflage print anew.
As for coats: even wool got a makeover by adding a water-repellent finish, making it ready to take on the next big journey. Longer aviator-style jackets add to the classic four-pocket silhouette, while a new technical shearling 3-in-1 parka features exposed leather seams and a detachable down-filled insulating nylon liner. The whole "riding" aspect is incorporated in biker jackets and this season also sees the introduction of the Belstaff Riding jacket, based on a traditional motorcycling style from the 50s.
This seasons, Belstaff also grew their knitwear styles by introducing the British Fair Isle pattern with moto stitch detailing and a new lightweight cashmere group for Winter 16. The concept of knitwear as outerwear is still key, epitomised by a rich shearling-panelled zip-through knitted bomber with applied leather pockets and a protective high-neck ribbed collar. Also to add to the outerwear, is the accessories collection made of functional bags that come in six key shapes and three fabrications. Furthermore, Belstaff also went back to the origins of motorcycling scarfs which were worn on the bike to protect the neck and face. Made exclusively in Scotland, there is a check pattern inspired by the lining from Belstaff’s wax styles. This comes in cashmere and merino in two sizes.
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Der Beitrag BELSTAFF | London Collections Men Autumn/Winter 2016 erschien zuerst auf SUPERIOR MAGAZINE.