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This season, at the Mercedes-Benz Fahsion Week Berlin, MARIANA JUNGMANN presents a set of 23 looks for Autumn/Winter 2016. With a choice of work or night outfits, the designer demonstrates great craftsmanship around the theme of “broken” (deshecho).
The dominant Renaissance lace used on the garments is Mariana Jungmann’s signature. The fabric is drawn by the designer to the pieces’ exact measurements, and then sent over to Brazil where it is traditionally made by hand.
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In this collection, the lace is added to lambskin leather, cotton and silk garments, or made as whole dresses. This creates a contrast of fabrics and textures, and an apparent division, which makes reference to Mariana’s inspirational artists, Frida Kahlo and Monica Piloni, in sectioning the body. On a red long dress, one of the sleeves is entirely made out of burgundy lace, while the other one is in the same fabrics as the rest of the dress. Other lace additions on the torso segment the body parts, and can recall Kahlo’s cast she used to wear after a near-fatal accident. This body deconstruction is central to Jungmann’s new collection, and even goes as far as a detail in the styling: the models’ thumbs are painted red, as if sectioned away from the rest of the hand. To create harmony between the outfits, although having to represent deconstruction, the laser cutting on leather pieces makes reference to the lace patterns.
Strong colours such as red, royal blue and intensive black contrast to nude, soft pink and burgundy, and find a balance between them although supposedly far from each other. This illustrates how the garments work as wholes, even though they appear broken. Like Frida Kahlo painted and kept on living after her accident, or Monica Piloni who creates sculptures out of dismantling body parts, Mariana Jungmann’s garments push the audience to defeat any battles. The designer’s choice of models is highly accurate, as a model kept on walking the catwalk without a shoe on because it annoyed her.
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This Autumn/Winter 2016 season promises to be full of adventures, good or bad, but Mariana Jungmann tells us to keep on going no matter what. It is a strong message for powerful women – wearing bespoke lace.
Der Beitrag MARIANA JUNGMANN | Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin Autumn/Winter 2016 erschien zuerst auf SUPERIOR MAGAZINE.
