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In September 2015, at the Spring/Summer 2016’s MBFW in Madrid, XAVI REYES got awarded the season’s Fashion Talent, and hence had the opportunity of showing his work to another city. The designer sponsored by Elle chose Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin and brought with him a pleasant Spanish summer vibe.
Before the collection is presented, a video appears at the beginning of the catwalk. It pictures Xavi Reyes, and some images of his sketches and garments, while his voice explains his career and inspiration. This gives an insight into the young label, which already has nice stories to tell about its fashion. Xavi is quite touching for the way he talks about his designs, and how personal they are, and when he shouts and jumps at the end of the show, everyone can feel his joy and pride – and be proud of him. In only two years, the designer has already made a name for himself, by being finalist of Vogue Spain’s “Who’s Next” contest, and with this Next Talent award by Mercedes-Benz.
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Once the video is finished, white flashing lights signal that we are finally about to discover the award-winning collection. On Mediterranean notes, female and male models take turn to present the summery – and quite refreshing – looks. As announced, in the video, white and blue are indeed the dominant colours, which make reference to the designer’s grandparents’ farm in a small village from Spanish mountains. In a skillful manner – which got him the award – Xavi mixes old fabrics found in his childhood location with modern silhouettes, or vice versa. A deconstructed top made in his grandma’s tablecloth, or a flamenco-like dress based on a denim print, these are what make the designs so exciting.
Xavi Reyes explains that he was inspired by the nature around the said-farm, which is reflected in the lace patterns, and in the white flower motifs he sewed on nude-coloured tulle. Many autobiographical elements are placed within the outfits, some more evidently than others. The grandmother’s textiles wouldn’t be discernable without the designer’s explanation; but Spanish influences are definitely present: the first looks’ scarves present red and green flower embroideries; pleats made by particular seams on edges give a Flamenco style.
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It feels like the audience is thrown back in the designer’s childhood. The music, the retro fabrics, the stripes, the flowers and the red doll-like cheeks all push towards this idea. With his fashion Xavi Reyes is able to communicate his memories and feelings, which entirely justifies the Talent Award. Make sure to look out for him, because it doesn’t seem like he is going to stop.
Der Beitrag XAVI REYES | Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin Autumn/Winter 2016 erschien zuerst auf SUPERIOR MAGAZINE.
