Backstage of the Stage@Me Collectors Room at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin, the designer Ivan Mandzukic is calm and focused. He politely answers last-minute questions, checks details on every look and receives best wishes form friends and supporters. He seems unfazed by the slightly hectic surroundings and transfers this attitude onto everyone in the room. The beauty team is finishing up the flawless skin make-up and side parted hairstyles. Everyday looks perfected so that they turn into a sophisticated elegance.
In the reduced gallery space, the IVANMAN show starts with a slightly menacing and slow soundtrack. The first model strolls onto the runway at a leisurely pace, presenting a tangerine coloured shirt combined with a wood green vest, a Prussian blue blazer and dark beige slim cut pleated pants. This eclectic mix of colours, with additions of scarlet red and black, follows through the entire collection.
In his words, Mandzukic was inspired to use this colour palette by his surroundings during his work. He named inspirational sources such as the Roman Polański movie “The Tenant” or his opposite neighbour, who regularly observes people on the street from his window. As abstract as this inspiration is, the result is all the more compelling. The colours spice up the standard pieces, such as the parka, turtleneck and tailored shirts in an unexpected new way.
Observing IVANMAN’s autumn/winter 2016 collection one easily perceives that the focus is on coats. As seen in previous collections, Ivan Mandzukic references his childhood in Serbia that was intensely impaired by war. This results in military inspired looks and, this season especially, military jackets such as the bomber jacket, the parka, gun-protection vests as well as camouflage inspired knitwear. These constructed shapes are only disrupted by more playful details such as gatherings or quiltings, giving the garments a unique touch.
The most dominant feature is over dimensional, neatly organised flap pockets on nearly all vests, coats and jackets. Ivan Mandzukic commented that they were the biggest challenge of the collection. He had to help out in production and now understandably wants a break from creating pockets. The trousers, although coloured differently, all show the same over-the-ankle, slim cut and pleated style with big flap pockets in the back. Details such as tone in tone shirts and ties or brightly coloured visible socks complete the vivid but meticulously planed layered looks.
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Ivan Mandzukic achieved to present a unique and interesting collection at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin, challenging his pure minimalistic style with a new focus on details and vibrant colours.
Der Beitrag IVANMAN | Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin Autumn/Winter 2016 erschien zuerst auf SUPERIOR MAGAZINE.