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On Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin’s last day, JULIAN ZIGERLI definitely wanted to make a statement and end on a high note. With his spring/summer 2017 collection, the designer did not only show his skills as a designer, but also as a rebel disrupting the system.
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The Swiss designer Julian Zigerli graduated from Berlin’s university of the arts 6 years ago and has already reached the international scene. Counting Berlin, London, New York, Seoul and Milan as his showing scenes, he is one of the few who made it this far this young, and he is only starting.
This season’s concept was based around the word “Sorry” – or rather the expression “Sorry not sorry”. The designer decided to push the boundaries of clothing and the fashion system by presenting things we should not be sorry for. Staying in your pyjamas all day, being half-dressed, guys wearing pink, boys and girls wearing the same outfits and hairstyles, doing things differently. And Zigerli certainly did his show differently – that is, backwards. The show opened with the designer waving at his audience, to then have the what-should-have-been finale, and then the looks appeared one by one. It finished in the dark, with the sound of an amplifier not plugged to any instruments, and the models walking one after the other like there was no problem.
This season was the first time Zigerli included women in his collection. Though, it was not to include proper women’s wear, but to inform girls that they can indeed wear Zigerli when it was discovered that a lot of them were buying into his menswear. And they should not be sorry for it – Julian Zigerli’s designs suit women as well as they suit men, as there is a unisex feel to the garments.
One of the collection’s major point was also comfortable. First the pyjamas and nuisette-like oufits, but also in the actual fabrics used. Cotton and linen were cut large to allow the bodies to move freely – which they effectively did back in January when the designer pre-showed the collection in Paris, and the models were skateboarding in his designs. To complement this, Converse sponsored Zigerli, who styled all of the looks with drawn-on white Converse trainers. An element not only to reflect youth culture and being comfortable on flats, but especially to encourage people into being comfortable with themselves and what they stand for. And have his customers saying loud and clear “Sorry, not sorry, never sorry”.
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Zigerli emphasized the disruption effect by having the show’s music changing abruptly. Everything in the show stood for something, which Zigerli wants his clothes to do as well. People should do and wear what makes them feel right, and not conform to what would be the norm. Add a smirk on the models’ faces and the show was perfectly discomposed. Julian Zigerli proved that fashion can be fun and reflective at the same time, and presented one of fashion week’s most memorable and outstanding show.
Der Beitrag JULIAN ZIGERLI | Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin S/S 2017 erschien zuerst auf SUPERIOR MAGAZINE.
