Presenting as part of Bloom is an opportunity for young designers to show their work within Portugal Fashion to a wide audience. One of the designers that will certainly benefit from that is EDUARDO AMORIM, whose collections reflecting on the textile industries need to be talked about. This Autumn/Winter 2016 collection was a continuation of his previous “Untold” collection, where he exposed textile waste and child labour in the fashion industry.
To expose the issues encountered within the fashion industry, Eduardo started last Spring/Summer 2016, with a collection that deconstructed and reconstructed the garments. Sleeves appeared as sewn back, with visible holes at the shoulders, and other pieces of sleeve were stripped back from their initial function and used as belts. Strings of fabrics were added on top of dresses and shirts, as if to hold the items together.
This season, the designer extended this idea and style onto winter garments. In a unisex collection, no piece of fabric was left to waste. The most striking element that represented that was seen in the trousers worn by female models. One of their legs was wider than the other, giving the impression of incorporating the leftover in the final piece. On top, two different halves were sewn together, offering half tailored jacket, half waistcoat to complete the looks. The idea of sleeves serving another purpose was reused here, when Eduardo created a whole dress out of suit jackets’ sleeves.
The colour palette was quite neutral, from black and grey to brown. It was spiced up in the styling, with the incorporation of bright coloured fleece tops under the deconstructed and reconstructed tailored garments.
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Eduardo Amorim demonstrated over his last two collections that issued within the industry should be addressed. Making clothes – or Eduardo’s career – should avoid harming the environment, as well as child labour. With a utopian notion that is reutilization, great garments can come to light, along with a good conscience.
Der Beitrag EDUARDO AMORIM | Portugal Fashion Autumn/Winter 2016 erschien zuerst auf SUPERIOR MAGAZINE.