PALMER//HARDING’s new Autumn/Winter 2016 collection was presented at Mary Ward House during London Fashion Week. The Central Saint Martins graduates Levi Palmer and Matthew Harding presented once again beautiful draperies in a variation of cotton shirts for luxury work wear.
In a foggy room, on the beats of mystical music, female models walked around wooden pallets. When first entering the space, a light was focused right at the visitors in a contre-jour, making it hard to define the garments and models. This illustrated palmer//harding’s theme of anonymity explored this season, following Berlin-based artist Nathan Peter’s anti-digital ideas.
This anonymity was subtly applied to several angles. In a more obvious way, very high-necks and sunglasses partly covered the models’ faces. If their knitwear did not include high-necks, the designers added some wool collars under cotton shirts. The brand’s signature shirts appeared in the forms of dresses, oversized or more classic and in earthy colours with additions of light blue and coral. These shirts were then combined with sweaters and coats, which not only referred to winter season, but also to layers and how people can hide their personalities away.
palmer//harding presented elongated silhouettes paired with long sleeves or leather gloves. The layers created pleated garments, mixed with additions of crimped fabrics, which gave the impression of movement. A movement that was followed through when the models all started walking around the room together, to then pose at the end. The designers decided to add leather blouses or bottoms and velvet trousers to their traditional use of cotton shirts.
The formless aspect of oversized shirts, layers and pleats was contrasted with geometrical elements. Patchworks of brown and beige fur squares appeared at the bottom of sleeves, in a long skirt, in belts or in a top over a light brown high-neck sleeveless sweater, recalling an armour’s protection feel. It seemed as though the designers wanted to play with contrasts and blur the common thoughts on winter clothing.
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palmer//harding presented a classic and elegant collection, with a concept worth thinking about. In the digital age where anonymity is so hard to find, they offered a solution in the form of layers to protect what makes us authentic individuals.
Der Beitrag PALMER HARDING | London Fashion Week 2016 erschien zuerst auf SUPERIOR MAGAZINE.