In the hotel Le Meridien, on Piccadilly, at the end of a corridor decorated by PAUL COSTELLOE sketches, the established designer decided to host a catwalk presentation for his new Autumn/Winter 2016 collection.
The designer started his eponymous label back in 1979, in home country Ireland, presenting Paul Costelloe Collection and Paul Costelloe Dressage. Since then he seeks to combine traditional tailoring and exquisite quality with modern techniques and attitudes. The designer dresses power women whose clothing underlines their strength, and fits a busy, on-the-go lifestyle. Translated into this new collection, Costelloe was inspired by modern day female warriors who embrace their femininity, while remaining strong.
The show opened with the song “Unchain my heart”, whose lyrics are those of a man too weak to resist a woman’s spell. Not only did this song put the audience in the right mood with an enchanting rhythm, but it also accompanied the designer’s theme by introducing his independent women. Paul Costelloe’s designs were made for powerful women to allow them to fully explore their potential.
Throughout the collection, Costelloe skillfully exposed his signature by sewing traditional fabrics such as tweed with modern techniques and styles. On the opening look, red and black checked wool gave place to a high-waist long coat whose wide bottom resembled a dress, turning the outerwear into a definite fashionable garment. Other tailored jackets were made perfectly only to contrast with today’s styling, as seen mixed with backpacks and knee-high socks. All these years in the fashion industry taught Paul Costelloe to stay true to tradition, while keeping up-to-date in some elements. A balance which reinforces a strength in each look, and hence each woman.
The brand’s trademark babydoll dresses dominated the collection and showed that sexy could empower women, giving them the power to play without being the slave of a man. Combined with leather gloves and suspenders, these dresses represented combat clothing for women who know what they want. Other fighting elements were noticeable in military jackets and a velvet army-textured dress or a horsehair bag, as well as an ear accessory and hairstyle that referenced Punk days and those women who were not afraid to say what they thought.
Paul Costelloe inspired himself not only from recent British traditions, but also from Victorian times, and this demonstrated further his skills to mix the old with the new with a beautiful result. Victorian high-neck collars, leather corsets worn over short dresses completed puffed skirts and sleeves. These were all combined with great cleavage or sexy knee-high socks, to give authority to any woman who seeks it. Highlights were a printed transparent organza worn as a quite conventional high-necked blouse and a shirtdress, whose see-through characteristic changed the traditional aspect.
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Paul Costelloe once again demonstrated his love for power women in a skillfully designed collection. The designer kept up with his time and also looked forward, while remaining true to his British roots. When traditional fabrics often go with a traditional look, Costelloe changed the rules and married them with modern and fashionable silhouettes and styling. Who said women couldn’t rock their tweed?
Der Beitrag PAUL COSTELLOE | London Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2016 erschien zuerst auf SUPERIOR MAGAZINE.