AUGUSTIN TEBOUL, the established half German half French label, presented its Autumn/Winter 2016 collection in the prestigious Kronprinzenpalais. A luxurious location for Annelie Augustin and Odély Teboul, who displayed a masterwork of embroidery in these new looks for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin.
The designers had us waiting a few minutes in the bright room, and everyone became quite impatient to see the renowned all-black outfits. When the lights went out and up again, a singer was revealed next to entrance, dressed in the designer’s typical sheer black shirt. She started intoning French words in a beautiful raspy voice.
To everyone’s surprise, the black outfits had some touch of colours for the first time. Through beads and merino wool embroideries, the designers spiced up their monochrome looks and presented great talent in the art of adornments. How could these laced, crocheted and hand-cut garments become even more meticulous? Annelie and Odely proved their craft went well beyond the manipulation of black. Their tights illustrated this with designs realized via colourful beads and wool embroideries, within the very thin black fishnets. Colours such as pink, blue, green and yellow completed the rock outfits only to make them even more dazzling.
The looks included leggings, mini skirts, mini-dresses, sweaters, and jackets with nothing underneath. Highly feminine and seductive looks for young modern women who are not afraid to show their assets. Augustin Teboul designed to show their models’ skin, whether with sheer black fabrics, fishnets or embroideries within the garments. This was combined with tight-fitting leggings or really mini skirts and shorts worn with sheer black shirts, or a close-fitting mini black dress to emphasise this idea. The last outfit illustrated it very well, as it was mainly made of colourful wool fishnets, with a pink deconstructed tulle skirt on top – or how to undress the dressed.
Every look was a masterpiece of meticulous chef-d’oeuvre, where metallic beads and strings of fabric complemented coloured merino wool. As a highlight, a dress with a tight-fitting corset-like top was entirely embroidered in sparkly beads and pink, blue, and green metallic threads. To finish the looks, a deconstructed veiled skirt with visible hems gave a rock touch to a high-end dress. An example of the designers’ outstanding work resided in a merino wool coat, which had been hand cut in a pattern recalling other crocheted garments.
The whole collection, although displaying electric colours in embroideries or crocheted fabrics, remained true to its brand’s rock signature. Tulle skirts were deconstructed to take off the princessy effect it normally has, and all looks were combined with appropriate footwear. If not actual ankle boots, the designers added coloured socks under the tights and paired them with black escarpins to keep the rock and roll feel ankle boots gave to the outfits.
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Augustin Teboul included colours in their designs through the use of beads and fabric threads, only to demonstrate further the extent of their talent. Each look was perfected meticulously for a marvelous final piece, while staying true to the brand’s identity: modern feminine rockstars.
Der Beitrag AUGUSTIN TEBOUL | Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin Autumn/Winter 2016 erschien zuerst auf SUPERIOR MAGAZINE.
