In the Radialsystem V, “space for arts and ideas”, ESTHER PERBANDT choreographed her Autumn/Winter 2016 collection for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin. In such a location, the designer stays true to herself and her brand identity.
With a concert-like structure, Esther Perbandt’s show definitely stands out from the crowd. Each row of seats is disposed above the other, making sure that everyone can see the stage. While the room is still black, four models fill the podium and wait for the lights to turn back on. When they do, a contemporary dance starts, bringing certain poetry to the room. In their movements, they demonstrate how the jumpsuits they wear at the moment is not as important as the big squares of black fabric they are interacting with. What they accomplish by putting on this material can be considered a definition of Perbandt’s profession – making magic out of a piece of fabric.
The dancers impress the audience for a few minutes and then stand still to the sound of a beating heart. It fluently becomes a pleasant classical music, and then goes faster to announce that the models are about to arrive.
A mix of male and female models enter from both side of the stage, and then come up the stairs closer to the audience, to end on stage in front of the photographers. With this arrangement, it is a though Esther includes her guests in the show pictures, making us part of the show. This agrees with her composition of models of all age, which allows her clothes to be worn by everyone. It is a universal fashion that has no boundaries.
This idea is reflected in androgynous silhouettes and classical work wear and suits for both male and female. One of the biggest highlights resides in tailoring completely and beautifully deconstructed. Pockets in the wrong spot, holes on front of the garment, visible seams and longer left sides all produce exciting outfits. As an example, a waistcoat with two pockets on the side and linked to two straps tries to confuse us. The pocket no longer is a useful part of the garment but a real ornamentation worth playing with – which string is part of the garment, and which one is added? Esther completely manipulates shapes, cuts and structures and shows us all the possibilities that fashion brings. Styles should be blurred – and gender as well.
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In a nicely weird collection, the designer presents outfits that, although skillfully made, shouldn’t be too serious. Fashion can be fun – and that funny/dancy model illustrates it well. The monochrome looks can be worn by colourful people, and be spiced up by typical-Esther hats, pleats and zips. On all-white garments, which could be quite sober, there are so much details and talent in the making, that one could almost forget it is only white.
With an androgynous rock Autumn/Winter 2016 collection, the designer Esther Perbandt demonstrated where her inspiration comes from since starting her label: Berlin’s night-life. Each outfit clearly represents this vibe, and could turn any foreigner in a Berliner!
Der Beitrag ESTHER PERBANDT | Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin Autumn/Winter 2016 erschien zuerst auf SUPERIOR MAGAZINE.