German, but London-based, designer MARKUS LUPFER presented his Autumn/Winter 2016 collection at One Horse Guards, a Grade II listed building with stunning views of the Thames and London’s iconic landmarks including The London Eye, Big Ben and The Houses of Parliament. Lupfer's idea was to create looks for a woman who is always on the go and needs outfits, which cater for her 24 hour lifestyle without compromising on polish. She is sophisticated, yet quirky and transitioning from work to play looks. Overall, the collection was romantic, soft and rich, as well as urban, dark and metallic. A contrast that is generally adored by celebrities like Nina Dobrev, Cheryl Fernandez-Versini, Pippa Middleton, Olivia Palermo, Beyoncé, Katy Perry, Britt Robertson, Elizabeth Banks and many more.
This year, Lupfer took the feminine tics developed for Pre-Fall 2016 into the Autumn/Winter collection with hand-finished embroidery that enlivened fil coupé separates. Softer silhouettes, longer hemlines and lighter materials combined with a rich colour palette of aubergine, navy, forest green and dusky pink evoked a bohemian sensibility. We saw lipstick-printed crepe de chine dresses or cheerful flower print separates. He added glamour with flashes of metallic on viscose crepe mini dresses and shimmering gold knife-pleated skirts, which were rather glam-rock compared to a subtly flecked black Seventies smock dress.
As for outerwear, a body-swamping chunky corduroy cape was one of the highlights, while cropped shearling jackets and a riveted black leather jacket, punctuated with signature gold ML lips, were not far behind. Sequined fine-knit gauge, merino wool sweaters with a pug image traced in gun metal and silver, alongside Rocket man sunglasses developed with Linda Farrow, were also in the collection. A sparkly update also got the cable knits, when traced in gold. We can't forget about the handbags, where the Riley tote, rendered in Italian-sourced leather, was just as great as the jewel-embellished cross-body Casey bags and the parker pouch. The star-speckled and flower embroidered square-toed boots added the finishing touch.
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Der Beitrag MARKUS LUPFER | London Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2016 erschien zuerst auf SUPERIOR MAGAZINE.